Siem Reap, Cambodia: That time I had a beer in a brothel

You know how every great travel story starts with "I probably shouldn't have…"? Yeah. This is one of those.

It all began in the pre-dawn hours in Siem Reap. I was heading out to meet Mr. Rhum (yes, that's his real name, and yes, he lives up to it) for a sunrise pilgrimage to Angkor Wat. As I stepped outside, I noticed a bar across the street I hadn't seen before. Quiet. Neon-lit. Suspiciously open. I mentally bookmarked it.

Fast forward to the next night: I was out on Pub Street and VW Bus Row drinking with a rowdy mix of Australians and French folks. It was the kind of night where you lose track of time, your tuk-tuk, and occasionally, your mind. Eventually, I found my ride, and on the way back, I remembered that mysterious bar.

Naturally, I went in. I walked straight to the counter, ordered a Budweiser, and started sipping. Ice cold. Perfect. The bartender gave me a look somewhere between confusion and concern. I didn't think much of it… until I finally looked around. The place looked like a retirement home had crashed into a high school prom. Old men. Young women. A "couple" descending from the upstairs like they'd just finished a very awkward Airbnb stay.

Oops. I'm in a whorehouse. But hey, the beer was already open.

At the end of the bar, a man was chatting with the bartender in a language I didn't recognize. I leaned over and joked, "Tell him I'm too expensive." She did. He frowned like I'd just insulted his grandmother's soup recipe. She came back, fist-bumped me, and handed me another Budweiser on the house. Mental note though, check to see if there's maybe a red light out front? Nah, what kind of story would that make?

I came for enlightenment at Angkor Wat, but found enlightenment in a brothel fridge.

Person wearing helmet riding a red motorcycle attached to a black carriage in a dirt area with trees in the background.
Ancient stone temple with a large tree growing on top, surrounded by greenery and dappled sunlight
Two ancient carved figures with elaborate headgear and jewelry, standing back-to-back, surrounded by intricate stone carvings, possibly depicting a mythological scene.
View of Angkor Wat temple complex surrounded by green trees under a partly cloudy sky.
Ancient stone temple ruins with a rainbow in the sky behind them.
Night scene of a lively street with colorful hanging lanterns and neon signs, crowded with people walking and socializing, with establishments like a pub and a tattoo shop.
Night scene of a busy street market with colorful string lights overhead, food and drink stalls on both sides, and people walking and sitting outside.
Tourists gathered near a water body in front of Angkor Wat temple on a cloudy day.
Colorful sunset sky over the silhouette of Angkor Wat temple in Cambodia with clouds and trees.
Silhouetted Angkor Wat temple complex at sunset with a person walking on a dirt path in the foreground.
Viewing a historic ancient temple complex surrounded by lush greenery, with a central pathway leading to the main entrance, and the sun setting or rising in the background.
Silhouette of Angkor Wat temple with a pond reflecting the structure, surrounded by trees on a cloudy day.
Tourists walking along a dirt path in Angkor Wat, Cambodia, with ancient temple ruins and palm trees under a blue sky.
Ruins of an ancient stone structure surrounded by green trees, with fallen stones and crumbling walls.
Silhouette of an ancient temple with towers, surrounded by trees, reflected in a calm body of water during sunset or sunrise, with a partly cloudy sky.
Silhouette of Angkor Wat temples reflected on a body of water with trees and a cloudy sky in the background.
Crowded bar or street food stall at night with neon and red lighting, people sitting on stools, counter with drinks, and a sign advertising cocktails and free YouTube movies.
Nighttime street scene with a bar stand selling street cocktails and drinks. The stand has a bright digital menu advertising various alcoholic beverages, and people are gathered around, enjoying their drinks.
A wide dirt road surrounded by green trees and plants, with a few people walking in the distance under an overcast sky.
Pig's head with ears and snout on a wooden table at a marketplace, with meat and other supplies in the background.
Intricate carved wooden doorway with detailed religious or mythological figures, floral patterns, and decorative motifs.
A young boy sitting on a small stool at an outdoor market, handling fish on a cardboard sheet, with fishing equipment and supplies around him, and women selling goods behind.
Busy street scene with people riding motorcycles and scooters, market stalls, and large leafy tree in the center, in a rural or small-town setting.
A stilt house built with wood and planks, featuring a blue railing and a staircase, situated in a rural area with dirt ground, plants, and some fabric hanging from the structure.
Interior of a rustic home with wooden floors and walls, decorated with colorful fabrics, pictures, and a small TV. Two hammocks hang across the room, and there is a red and orange striped rug on the floor. Various furniture and household items are vi
People standing on a wooden stilt house with a covered porch, some taking photos and others walking up stairs, under a partly cloudy sky.
View from inside a boat looking out over a river with buildings and boats on the opposite bank, partly cloudy sky.
People in a small boat on a river near houses elevated on stilts in a fishing village.
A dirt road in a rural village with wooden houses on stilts, some with blue railings, and people riding bicycles and walking; greenery on both sides and utility poles in the background.
Houses on stilts along a river, with makeshift structures and boats in the water.
Ancient stone temple with detailed carvings and moss-covered roofs, flanked by stone statues of mythical creatures.
A person herding pigs in a green, wooded area with lush trees and grass.
Ancient stone temple with three spires, wet ground in front, trees on either side, cloudy sky.
Circus performers in a ring, with one performer mid-air doing a flip, while others hold a prop overhead and audience seated around the stage.
A performer balancing on a stack of black and white blocks on a stage, with arms outstretched. There are other people nearby and a musician playing drums in the background.
A person sitting cross-legged on a stage or platform, wearing orange clothing, with a small table or tray in front of them holding objects, possibly in a temple or traditional setting with dark stone structures and pillars.
A woman standing in front of an ancient temple surrounded by lush green trees
Person smiling and wearing glasses, a cap, and a light-colored shirt, standing in front of an ancient stone sculpture of a face at a historical site, with a blue sky and some clouds in the background.
A person with glasses, wearing a dark T-shirt, smiling in front of a reflective body of water with Angkor Wat temple in Cambodia in the background under a cloudy sky.
Long corridor inside a historic stone structure, with engravings or carvings on the right wall, supported by wooden posts on the left side, leading to an opening at the end showing greenery outside.
Tourists walking along a stone pathway lined with palm trees, approaching an ancient temple gate in Angkor Wat, Cambodia.
A wooden bridge crossing a small river with monks walking on it. In the background, there is a decorative archway leading to a path with a temple or religious building with a red roof. The sky is cloudy and dark.
Ancient stone temple entrance with intricate carvings and sculptures of deities and mythical creatures.